26 cult, coveted, EFFECTIVE products beauty industry people actually use
Not secret but not viral either...
The other day, an ex-editor friend of mine DM’d me to ask the following: “What vitamin c / pigment inhibitor are you using - are we still on CE ferulic?”
The collective “we” made me think about industry knowledge and the cult products beauty people actually use (as in, those of us on the inside). This was something I came to learn when I first started working as a beauty writer and reporter about a decade ago. There was a suite of maybe 20(?) skincare products every single industry person was using in some combination. Not just editors but derms, aestheticians, founders, buyers, hair stylists and makeup artists as well. Anyone that was close to the source.
I remember when I started working at Byrdie (my first full time job) and I swear to god, everyone on the US, AU and UK payroll was on the Eve Lom Cleanser, Skinceuticals CE Ferulic and Biologique Recherche P50. We’d laugh in the office about our faces smelling kind of like ham and vinegar. Of course we were also using Masque Vivant on the weekend (with a sprinkle of bicarb soda!).
Anyway, this entire thought process and nostalgic spiral has manifested as a list of 26 cult, interesting, truly in the know skincare products that are neither unheard of nor viral. Instead they exist someplace else entirely. Think of them as the clothes that fashion designers actually wear. They might not always be trending in the microcosm of SkinTok but they are the real deal. Reliable classics. I’ve included some OG picks from my early days as well as newer stuff, because I like to think I have my ear to the ground when it comes to this kind of thing…
IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER:
This admittedly is famous, thanks to Emily Weiss and all the top shelves that came before her. An exfoliating French toner with onions (really) that cultivates clear, even skin. Melanie Grant gave me my first bottle and I’ll always be grateful.
Tretinoin
A prescription Retinoid that is surprisingly easy to procure, and a silver bullet for acne and wrinkles. Personally I had a bad experience with it, but one man’s trash, etc etc…
Roaccutane
Heavy duty acne medication that in my experience is taken by a lot of people.
Gold standard antioxidant, editor catnip, dermatologist Vit C of choice (usually). BUT the patent on the formula has recently expired so we must watch out for dupes (I’m sure Skinceuticals are one it because they’re the original and the best)
Everyone who knows skincare loves this brand. Very IYKYK cult skincare stuff. It’s German and all about peptides. Very Augustinus Bader but more mysterious.
NYC IT girl aesthetician Elizabeth Grace Hand from Stallë Studios AND a former buyer from Moda Operandi both told me this is the best at-home LED on the market and I believe them. Yours for a stunning $3500…
Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore Cream
This moisturiser makes me think of my time at Byrdie. Everyone loved it. I still think it’s one of the best creams for dry skin I’ve ever used.
When you are in the presence of skin experts, this serum is bound to come up in conversation. It’s one of the products I saw the most success with when I was in my acne phase. I wrote a little more about that time in my life here.
From what I hear, almost everyone at Mecca HQ loves this moisturiser and they KNOW what’s good/have more access than most. It’s super rich, cushiony and healing.
When I was dealing with the aforementioned acne, the beauty editor at Vogue suggested I reach out to Rationale. It was an elusive, expensive Australian skincare brand back then (it still is expensive, but I feel as if the awareness has grown/it’s expanded quite a lot). The PR at the time has since gone on to found a popular sunscreen brand, but back then she gifted me the ENTIRE full size regimen, known as the Essential Six. I almost died. It genuinely changed my skin and I still use a lot of the products.
I’ll be honest, this seems to have mixed reviews in my cohort but personally I LOVE The Rich Creme (it inspired this Substack’s namesake, after all).
Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum
The beauty industry’s face oil of choice. It was actually an interview with Lucia Pica (previously Chanel, now Byredo) who made me go out and buy this product. I still use it religiously to this day.
One of my earliest editors was mad for May Lindstrom and subsequently got me hooked on this repairing salve and the VERY famous Honey Mud.
The original balm cleanser. There’s something about the smell and the muslin cloth that delivers the best-ever cleansing experience…
Biologique Recherche Masque Vivant
Smells and looks like vegemite because of the yeast content, but delivers on the promise of hyper-smooth, clear skin without the need for an actual facial.
THE unofficial prep moisturiser of makeup artists.
Skin Design London Cherry Gloss Peel
This brand keeps popping up in all the right places. I feel it’s a thing. I actually tried this peel during the week (a fun cotent shoot) and it was so. good. Instant baby skin. I need to get myself one…
Victoria Baron, Victoria Beckham, Hailey Bieber… Everyone loves this and it’s had a cult following for forever. Super thick and RICH.
Sofie Pavitt Mandelic Clearing Serum
I haven’t tried this but I love Sofie and feel like she’s the NYC acne guru. She’s also firm in her belief that mandelic acid is better for acne than salicylic acid.
I was at backstage NYC fashion week once chatting to some editors while we waited for out two-minute interview slot with the makeup director. I mentioned my skin was breaking out from all the travel and they both told me to march to Sephora and buy this mask. It really works and I wish it were easier to buy in Australia…
For a while we all got really scared of face scrubs but this one has always seemed to rise above it. The grains are super, super fine and it’s like microdermabrasion at home. It is criminally good and gives you glowing baby skin.
So many skin therapists I know love, use and recommend this face mask. Creamy, nourishing, antibacterial — what else could you want?
I’ve never used Dr Loretta but all the NYC girls are on it (Charlotte Palermino, Hallie Gould etc etc).
I’ve written about Biba before (read my interview here). She’s an acne guru and aside from her own skincare she helps a lot of popular brands formulate in a way that won’t congest breakout-prone skin
So the last time I was in NYC I went to Rescue Spa for a facial and the therapist told me there was whispers that Danucera Tonic is comparable to P50 (not my words, but I’m intrigued…)
Koh Gen Do was such a thing when I started in this industry. The foundation was as famous as Luminous Silk. The face wipes and cleansing water are also legendary.
Other honourable mentions…
Monastery Made, Dr Diamond Metacine, Lyma Laser, U Beauty, Supergoop Unseen Screen, Ultra Violette, Dieux, Emma Lewisham, Soft Services & Lilis for BODY STUFF
NEWS, HEADLINES, SAVES
I rewatched Anora recently and it got me thinking about hair tinsel, in particular this reference ^ from the FW 1996 Dries Van Noten runway show
Kyle Lahey, the CEO of Glossier, is exiting by the end of the year. Unsure if this is bad news, or maybe she’s just facilitated the Sephora launch and it’s onto the next…
Kind of fascinated with this retailer called Utopia Beauty that only sells ‘science backed’ products, taking into account efficacy, ingredients, delivery systems etc… I feel like beauty is incredibly saturated and curation interests me more than new brands right now…
Merit are launching an interesting new product next month and I’ve been trialling it (really, really good)
I’m really into the concept of uber-luxe wellness hubs, like Water Lounge in NYC, or Saint Haven that’s opening in NSW (it’s currently open in Melbourne). Also deeply obsessed with Sofiebadet bathhouse in Copenhagen…
PRODUCT OF THE WEEK
I’ve been wearing Hermes H24 (borrowed from my husband) and I LOVE the way it smells: like soap, sage and sheets of metal.
Enjoy what’s left of your weekend x
Guilty as charged! This is so good, Em - I had forgotten about many in this list. Credit card is getting a workout. You’re doing God’s work.
Thanks so much for sharing this information. I was expecting a paywall…. so very generous of you! I have ordered two products and am looking forward to trying them out. Thank you again!